ambiguous216

My 07 Tahoe liftgate wire fell off. Looks like this has to be soldered back on to the liftgate window. I am having a hard time getting solder to make it stick back to the liftgate window. Is there a metallic glue that I can use instead or any other suggestions?


Much appreciated.

73shark

You might try the Permatex defroster wire repair epoxy. Stretch the coiled wire so when the window is closed, there is some slack and it's not putting any stress on the soldered tab. If you look at a new one, you'll see that they come that way now.

in2pro

The TSB for this is #03-08-48-006E
: Repair Information for Reconnection of Rear Window Defroster Contact or Tab - (Aug 25,2008)

This bulletin is being revised to update the applicable model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-48-006D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).

Subject: Repair Information for Reconnection of Rear Window
Defroster Contact or Tab
Models: 2000-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
2003-2009 HUMMER H2
2006-2009 HUMMER H3
2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
2007-2009 Opel GT
2007-2008 Daewoo G2X
with Electric Rear Window Defroster (RPO C49)

in2pro

I wish I could post the PDF procedure but its bigger then the forum's limit, but it has pictures for the repair process but I can post the meat of the repairs text...




2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | View All Bulletins
| Document ID: 2181906
#03-08-48-006E: Repair Information for Reconnection
of Rear Window Defroster Contact or Tab - (Aug 25,
2008)
This bulletin is being revised to update the applicable model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-48-006D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Repair Suggestions
Soldering Defroster Contact Tabs
In most applications it is preferable to create a new solder connection to reattach a separated rear
defroster tab. If you take note of the steps below, it is possible to create a new solder joint that is
equal to, or stronger than, the original. The generic procedure below is not very time intensive, but
does include minor preparation work to create a good bonding surface. Be sure to follow each of
the steps as combined they will produce the strongest bond possible. Please consider the following
before attempting the repair:
Subject: Repair Information for Reconnection of Rear Window
Defroster Contact or Tab
Models: 2000-2009 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn)
2003-2009 HUMMER H2
2006-2009 HUMMER H3
2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
2007-2009 Opel GT
2007-2008 Daewoo G2X
with Electric Rear Window Defroster (RPO C49)
• Soldering introduces significant heat to the glass window of the vehicle. When performing the
re-connection of the tab, use only the heat required to do the job. Pre-Heat the soldering
iron, have the solder in your other hand ready to go the moment you have enough heat to
melt the solder.
• If it is winter; bring the vehicle into the service garage and remove any snow from the back
window area. Allow time for the glass to warm to the temperature inside the building.
Soldering creates a "hot spot" in the glass. DO NOT solder on cold glass.
Caution: Heating the glass excessively, or repeatedly without time to cool, may result in
glass breakage. ALWAYS wear safety glasses when performing this repair!
© 2011 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.
Document ID: 2181906 Page 1 of 6

Soldering Procedure
1. In many cases the terminal tab will still be in the connector when you examine the vehicle.
For Chevrolet Tahoe, Suburban, GMC Yukon, and Cadillac Escalade vehicles (with moveable
glass), always replace the defroster tab (GM P/N 25916031). For all other vehicles, please
reconnect the original defroster tab.
Important: DO NOT re-use the existing defroster tab on new style utility (GMT900) vehicles
with moveable glass.
2. Prepare the surface of the used defroster tab (Not required for new tabs on new style utility
models (GMT 900) and the defroster buss bar with fine grain (500 grit) sandpaper or Emery
cloth. It is not necessary to remove all of the original solder but it should be scuffed
sufficiently so that no oxidation is present. The photo above shows a close up of a properly
prepared surface.
Tip
You may want to mask the glass around the contact area with tape. This is easy to do and
will allow you to safely prepare the contact surface without the risk of scratching the glass or
the black painted shading.
Important: Most rear glass has a black painted masking around the edge of the glass. When
cleaning up the connection surface be very careful not to damage the surface of the black
shading or the surface of the glass.
• You must use a Silver-Bearing Solder to make the connection. DO NOT attempt this repair
with conventional Lead / Tin solders. Silver Bearing Solder will adhere to the electrical buss
bar making a strong and lasting repair.
• Protect surfaces under the area to be soldered. It is very easy to drip solder when performing
this repair. Just placing a shop towel under the soldering area is sufficient protection.
Document ID: 2181906 Page 2 of 6

3. Wipe the newly prepared contact area with Kent Automotive Acrysol (or equivalent) to
remove any residual oil or dirt.
Document ID: 2181906 Page 3 of 6

Important: You must use a Silver-Bearing Solder to make the solder joint. DO NOT attempt
this repair with conventional Lead / Tin solders. Most suppliers have this type of solder
available, and it is available nationally at Radio Shack. It is sold in several diameters and
either are acceptable for this repair.
4. For this step, it is permitted that two technicians be used if required. Heat the new contact
on the surface of the buss bar that is to be soldered. Long nose pliers are suggested to hold
the contact in place. Keep the solder ready and begin flowing out the solder as soon as the
melting temperature has been reached.
Tip
If a single technician is attempting this repair, it is sometimes beneficial to wrap one turn of
the solder around the new contacts base. In this manner as the melting point of the solder is
reached, a layer is deposited on the bottom side of the contact.
Important: Try to align the new contact so that it is positioned with the same attitude as the
original contact.
Document ID: 2181906 Page 4 of 6

5. The photo above pictures an ideal finished solder joint. Additional stray solder will not harm
the performance of the bond however, while it is unlikely that customers may refer to the
appearance of the rear window defroster and its components as a positive styling feature of
the vehicle interior, it is easy to elicit the opposite reaction due to a poor cosmetic
application.
6. Remove and replace the rear defogger electrical power connector by crimping a new
connector to the feed wire. The proper connector can be found in the Packard Electrical
Assortment, Tray 18, Position 5. The connector is P/N 12034110.
7. Apply a small amount of GM Vehicle Care Dielectric Lubricant to the rear defogger connector.
8. Connect the electrical connector to the defroster tab. Be sure to fully engage the connector.
An improperly seated connector may cause excessive resistance and hamper proper
operation of the defroster.
Parts Information
Acrysol can be ordered directly from Kent Automotive at 1-800-654-6333 (in Canada, 1-800-563-
1717).
Radio Shack products can be found nationally at retail locations, www.radioshack.com, or at 1-800-
843-7422.
In Canada, use The Source by Circuit City -- www.thesourcecc.ca or 1-866-454-4426 (English) or
1-866-544-4431 (French).
The balance of the parts list can be ordered through GMSPO.
Part Number Description
25916031 Tab, Defroster Power (new style utility models (GMT900))
12034110 (Tray 18,
Position 5)
Rear Defroster Electrical Power Connector (Packard Electrical
Assortment Only)
64-013E Radio Shack Silver Solder (0.22 dia)
Document ID: 2181906 Page 5 of 6

Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
64-026E Radio Shack Silver Solder (0.62 dia)
P20005 Kent Automotive Acrysol Solvent (32 fl. oz.) 946 ml
12377900 (U.S.)
10953529 (Canada)
GM Vehicle Care Dielectric Lubricant (2 fl. oz.)
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
N9577* Defroster, Electrical Connection - Reattach 0.3 hr
*This labor operation number is for bulletin use only. This number will not be published in
the Labor Time Guide.
Labor
Operation Description
Failed
Object
Fault/Reason
Code
Location
Code
Warranty
Type
Repair/Action
Code
Labor
Time
8435305
Defroster,
Electrical
Connection -
Reattach
84353 61 0 01 05 0.3 hr
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a
""do-it-yourselfer"". They are written to inform these technicians of
conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide
information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle.
Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety
instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a
condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to
your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your
GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from
the information.
WE SUPPORT
VOLUNTARY
TECHNICIAN
CERTIFICATION
Document ID: 2181906 Page 6 of 6

Hardin Thicke

Mine fell off shortly before the initial warranty ran out. The dealership replaced the entire glass. What they don't tell you in the TSB above is it take a pretty large iron to put enough heat intothe glass to make a good joint. A hobby iron or a gun like a Weller just can't supply enough heat. Also, to do it right, the glass should be removed so the tab can be set onto the foil area on the glass.

in2pro

I agree, that and as stated in the TSB if you don't do it right you can shatter the glass....I personally think the best (short of replacement) is to use a conductive epoxy or wire glue, designed for that kind of repair..

ChevyFreak

I had this happen recently to me as well on my '07 Tahoe LT. I had the work done under warranty at the dealership. I am not sure what they used, but when they showed me the fixed wire after completion it looked more like a glue-type substance. It definitely was not solder though.

Hope that helps!

73shark

Probably used the grid wire repair epoxy.

synack

I just fixed this today on my '07 Suburban. The TSB is right on. The part was less than $3, then $4 for Silver solder. I used one of those high temp solder guns. Rat Shack has them for $30 which is a ripoff as they can be had of less than half that elsewhere.

I made two loops of solder around the connector base, melted that with the gun while using needlenose pliers to hold. Then put the connector in position and applied heat. Whole soldering process was <10sec. Everything as a whole was <5 mins.

Thanks for the TSB!

in2pro

Glad it worked for you and thanks for taking the time to provide feed back on your success