secondary air injection
December 16th, 2006, 1:51 AM
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secondary air injection
hey guys Im glad I found this site! Ive had an error light on my dash for a few weeks here and I need some help diagnosing the issue.
Its a p0410 (secondary air injection failure). Ive got a 2000 s10 2.2L vortec. I keep driving it seeing as its an emmissions error but I have no clue on how to find out if its 1 fautly hose 2 faulty valve or censor 3 faulty smog pump (or whatever its called). I doubt its the pump because to my understanding it would affect performance and this thing runs like a top! I registered the truck on alldatadiy but this is a system that gets skipped over for this car. Please help if you can cause this is my first new vehicle, in the old days I would do a hack job on my old beaters just to make em run and not think twice but I vowed to keep this cherry.
Its a p0410 (secondary air injection failure). Ive got a 2000 s10 2.2L vortec. I keep driving it seeing as its an emmissions error but I have no clue on how to find out if its 1 fautly hose 2 faulty valve or censor 3 faulty smog pump (or whatever its called). I doubt its the pump because to my understanding it would affect performance and this thing runs like a top! I registered the truck on alldatadiy but this is a system that gets skipped over for this car. Please help if you can cause this is my first new vehicle, in the old days I would do a hack job on my old beaters just to make em run and not think twice but I vowed to keep this cherry.
December 16th, 2006, 4:31 AM
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RE: secondary air injection
Hello frazprg.
Checking the hose should be easy enough if you can locate it. (you might have to try to find it by referring to the emissions decal under the hood). check the hose to make sure it is connected properly and there are no cracks to cause leakage. a visual inspection is usually good enough, but you can pressure check it by blowing pressure into it, and see if it escapes.
The smog pump should be easy as well. Look for a place where a pipe comes up to it form the catalytic converter. That is where the air gets pumped to the cat. Disconnect the hose somewhere along that length of pipe/hose and with the motor running check for mild pulses of warm air. Usually smog pumps are trouble-free, but you never know till you check.
When you rule-out those first two issues, you will be left with the likely culprit...On Alldata or in the Haynes Manual, You should be able to find the troubleshooting procedures for that sensor/valve. Again, the emissions dacal under the hood is required by FED and it is usually laid-out with the components displayed closely to where you will find them in the engine compartment. Use it to help locate the valve.
Another thing you might consider is a Google search of your code#, and model/year. Chances are good that you can find dozens of related issues.
Good luck Brother, and thanks for the info on the Theftlock radio,
Larry
Checking the hose should be easy enough if you can locate it. (you might have to try to find it by referring to the emissions decal under the hood). check the hose to make sure it is connected properly and there are no cracks to cause leakage. a visual inspection is usually good enough, but you can pressure check it by blowing pressure into it, and see if it escapes.
The smog pump should be easy as well. Look for a place where a pipe comes up to it form the catalytic converter. That is where the air gets pumped to the cat. Disconnect the hose somewhere along that length of pipe/hose and with the motor running check for mild pulses of warm air. Usually smog pumps are trouble-free, but you never know till you check.
When you rule-out those first two issues, you will be left with the likely culprit...On Alldata or in the Haynes Manual, You should be able to find the troubleshooting procedures for that sensor/valve. Again, the emissions dacal under the hood is required by FED and it is usually laid-out with the components displayed closely to where you will find them in the engine compartment. Use it to help locate the valve.
Another thing you might consider is a Google search of your code#, and model/year. Chances are good that you can find dozens of related issues.
Good luck Brother, and thanks for the info on the Theftlock radio,
Larry
December 16th, 2006, 6:31 AM
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RE: secondary air injection
I agree. If you get a Haynes Manual from a parts store it will tell you the code and should have a list of possible problems and how to fix them.
You may want to be careful about driving it to long like that, sometimes one bad sensor will cause others to go bad too.
You may want to be careful about driving it to long like that, sometimes one bad sensor will cause others to go bad too.
December 16th, 2006, 2:34 PM
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RE: secondary air injection
Lol Yeah you would think a chilton/haynes and or Alldata would have this info. Nope, not only does the book skip right over the air injection codes (p0403-p0419 skipped). Yeah I think your right, Ill probably start at the smog pump and follow it in both directions. I should at least be able to find some sensor or valve that way. My big worry is that the throttle body is one solid piece and egr and sai are ported directly into it as far as i can tell, i was told that they used to use a plate beneath throttleB just for the emissions intake.
I still cant beleave alldata doesnt cover it but thanks for the input.
I still cant beleave alldata doesnt cover it but thanks for the input.
December 18th, 2006, 2:47 PM
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RE: secondary air injection
Here is something interesting I stumbled across after a google search of the p 0410 code. The link is below, and the interesting quote is #55 on page 3
Maybe it will put you in the right direction!
Larry
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176157
09-12-2006, 09:16 AM #55
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UPDATE: im getting my CC ready to sell, and returning it to stock. and have re-installed the air injection system. i found i had a blown fuse, so i replaced it, and bech tested the air pump motor and it worked fine. a couple of days passed, and the SES light returned... yep, code p0410... air injection system.
the 30A fuse was blown again....
so off came the pump asy. for a comeplete teardown inspection.
first, the pump.
the pump had only been on the truck just over a week, and it had 2-3 onces of water in it again... but the truck hasnt seen any rain since being re-installed, so the water can only be condensation from the exhaust system... which there was a strong exhaust smell to the water.
there is a foam filter inside the front cover, and it was petrified, and crumbling, and started getting sucked into impeller. the impeller blades themselves were intact, and undamaged. again, bench testing the motor showed it to be running fine, and delivering plenty of air through the outlet port.
everything was cleaned, and reassembled, minus the foam filter....
i also drilled a small hole into the bottom of the air inlet housing, to allow any water buildup to drain out.
next, i did a check of the vacuum operated air shutoff valve at the end of the pump`s air discharge port. using a hand vac. pump to check it revealed the valve to be holding vac., and opening and closing properly. blowing through it in both open and closed, showed it to be sealing well when closed, and flowed well when open. no problems here.
last, i checked the vacuum switching solenoid, and found it to be DEFECTIVE....
when applying power to the terminals, there was no telltale "click" from it, but current was passing through the coil windings, so the pintle valve must be stuck inside.
spraying penetrating oil into the vac. ports, and lightly tapping on the solenoid didnt free it up, so i disassembled the solenoid, and found the pintle valve to be severely corroded. scraping it with a blade, and some fine sandpaper got it back into decent shape.
i washed down all the parts, including the inside of the solenoid housing with penetrating oil, and after some tedious, and frustrating reassembly, the solenoid was working properly, with a distintive "click" when power was applied...
with the everything back on the truck, and a new fuse, the system is actually quieter than before, due to the lack a "gurgling" noise coming from the air inlet tube... apparently, the faulty solenoid was causing the air shutoff valve to remain open all the time, which it shouldnt be....
so far, all is well. i will will post an update in a few days, to let you know if the code returns....
i think most of these pump assemblies can be repaired, for little or no money.
i also think most of the water that gets into them comes from the exhaust system, not the air inlet tube....
Maybe it will put you in the right direction!
Larry
http://www.s10forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=176157
09-12-2006, 09:16 AM #55
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User is: OffLine Re: SES: Secondary air injection system
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UPDATE: im getting my CC ready to sell, and returning it to stock. and have re-installed the air injection system. i found i had a blown fuse, so i replaced it, and bech tested the air pump motor and it worked fine. a couple of days passed, and the SES light returned... yep, code p0410... air injection system.
the 30A fuse was blown again....
so off came the pump asy. for a comeplete teardown inspection.
first, the pump.
the pump had only been on the truck just over a week, and it had 2-3 onces of water in it again... but the truck hasnt seen any rain since being re-installed, so the water can only be condensation from the exhaust system... which there was a strong exhaust smell to the water.
there is a foam filter inside the front cover, and it was petrified, and crumbling, and started getting sucked into impeller. the impeller blades themselves were intact, and undamaged. again, bench testing the motor showed it to be running fine, and delivering plenty of air through the outlet port.
everything was cleaned, and reassembled, minus the foam filter....
i also drilled a small hole into the bottom of the air inlet housing, to allow any water buildup to drain out.
next, i did a check of the vacuum operated air shutoff valve at the end of the pump`s air discharge port. using a hand vac. pump to check it revealed the valve to be holding vac., and opening and closing properly. blowing through it in both open and closed, showed it to be sealing well when closed, and flowed well when open. no problems here.
last, i checked the vacuum switching solenoid, and found it to be DEFECTIVE....
when applying power to the terminals, there was no telltale "click" from it, but current was passing through the coil windings, so the pintle valve must be stuck inside.
spraying penetrating oil into the vac. ports, and lightly tapping on the solenoid didnt free it up, so i disassembled the solenoid, and found the pintle valve to be severely corroded. scraping it with a blade, and some fine sandpaper got it back into decent shape.
i washed down all the parts, including the inside of the solenoid housing with penetrating oil, and after some tedious, and frustrating reassembly, the solenoid was working properly, with a distintive "click" when power was applied...
with the everything back on the truck, and a new fuse, the system is actually quieter than before, due to the lack a "gurgling" noise coming from the air inlet tube... apparently, the faulty solenoid was causing the air shutoff valve to remain open all the time, which it shouldnt be....
so far, all is well. i will will post an update in a few days, to let you know if the code returns....
i think most of these pump assemblies can be repaired, for little or no money.
i also think most of the water that gets into them comes from the exhaust system, not the air inlet tube....
December 18th, 2006, 3:35 PM
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RE: secondary air injection
yeah I was starting to think along those lines. I checked some info I googled on the pump and they go out all the time (they dont like pumping water). I checked fuses and only found one that may have been a problem but it was going to the oxygen sensor wich had a voltage that comes and goes but is likely part of normal opperation, i changed the fuse anyway. From what I read about the fuse to the air pump is in the fender under the battery and requires a removal of the battery among otherthings just to test the voltage. I think the pump is ok still (its the most expensive part there) but Im going to try to get those check valves replaced and Ill look for that celenoid and hope i can find it. Ill think about that hole drill, I imagine it wont really affect anything but prevent exhaust from being pumped to the engine wich asside from emmisions standerds is a goodthing (we dont have emmissions checks here). I tried to see if the pump was running for the first minute of engine opperation but its hard cause the whole thing vibrates because the engine is running. Im a machinist so i think i may make a valve that seals under pressure or vacuume but while sitting it drains water, that should eliminate this issue for good.
Ill get back to you when its done, this is a bad time of year for these kinds of things and i dont have alot of free time.
Ill get back to you when its done, this is a bad time of year for these kinds of things and i dont have alot of free time.
April 3rd, 2007, 3:34 PM
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RE: secondary air injection
Well I finaly got around to fixing my air pump issue. Its been cold so now that the warm air is around I figured I would climb under and pull it out. The pump cost $204 wich Is the most costly part Ive had to buy to date.
Well I didnt buy one, I rebuilt mine and its better now than it was before. Ive heard many stories about water in the system and how it can burn out the pump. NO I dont beleave this pump can burn out exactly, Its very simple and really beefy so Ill tell you how I rebuilt mine and this may help you out.
First remove 3 bolts holding the radiator gaurd and loosen the 4th then swivel it out of the way.
Pull all the inlet hose and the out hose after the check valve, remove the wires and then pull the bolts from the bracket mounting to the frame (13 mm i think). Now you can take it inside where its more convenient, there are 5 torx screws holding the pump together, you can remove the pump from the bracket if its easier for you to work with. The screw in the middle of the pump is a plastic screw so dont mix it up, everything is kindof sealed together but not really well so feel free to remove the the cap with the inlet and the rubber cap covering the motor itself. Now heres where you can do damage but who cares its shot anyway right so if you destroy it youll have to replace it anyway. You can take a hand drill (carefully, if you cant do this without hurting yourself you have no place doing it) and drill the metal tabs that are bent down to hold the motor together, youll likely have to grind at it with the side of your drill to cut it up . You may do damage to the seal section but you can fill that in with some high temp calk or whatever you want later. Once all four tabs are torn up you could probably pry with a flat head screw driver to get the housing off. Now youll notice the motor coil and the brush points at the base, This appears to me to be impossible to dissassemble so youll have to get some steady hands. Use an exacto knife to scratch up the wires, I bet you found a few wires that are broke right? Well you job is to brase all the broken wires back on and all the wires that arent broken for good messure (see how this is the part of the motor that was designed badly!), Youll want to use a high temp solder gun and a .031 dia solder to connect them, scratch em up really good so it sticks. Scratch at your solder to make shure its stuck really hard (a ball of solder wont likely work because of centrifical forces). After all points are stuck on hard then its likely cool, If you have a dc power supply handy then you can simply hook up the motor and make shure it runs now, turn it on and off to make shure it doesnt have a dead spot (this is important because it will stop right there sometime), make shure it comes to a full stop each time you turn it on and off, do that at least 10 times to exhaust the possibility for error.
If all is good then all you need now is a hard rubber washer (any washer should work but some kind of plastic should prevent wear on the rubber cap). loob up the spindle where you can but stay away from the brush points, blow out the dust the best you can and put your motor case back on the way it came off (if the motor dont work you may have the case on backwards) put your ruber washer on the end of the motor case (this allows for the assembly to hold the thing together really well) and put some sealer around the seal point and in any divets you may have made when drilling. This is just to keep water out of the motor case, rusty wires are hard to fix unless you respool it and that is a job in itself. assemble the motor the way it came apart and push on the end of the rubber cap to make shure its putting atleast a little pressure on the motor ( i think your washer needs to be 1/8 inch wide, .125 maybe more). put your truck back together and disconnect your negative battery cable for a while (i did it at work between brakes so Mine sat for 2 hours) then reconnect and your lite should stay off. You should feel the motor while its running from time to time to make shure its vibrating, It vibrates alot! so dont mistake it for engine vibration.
There is a solenoid in this assembly too, Its on the same bracket next to the pump. If your motor works but the light still appears it could be a cloged vac line or a bad solenoid. I cant help you there because mine appears to be good but I imagine the piece is cheaper than the motor itself including the checkvalve (that things so simple and durable i doubt it would ever break eather! This tutorial should have cost you no more than $50 in radio shack solder guns and solder wich is alot nicer than $204 in parts and now if it gos again you can pull it apart and fix it. Hope this helps someone save some cash!
Well I didnt buy one, I rebuilt mine and its better now than it was before. Ive heard many stories about water in the system and how it can burn out the pump. NO I dont beleave this pump can burn out exactly, Its very simple and really beefy so Ill tell you how I rebuilt mine and this may help you out.
First remove 3 bolts holding the radiator gaurd and loosen the 4th then swivel it out of the way.
Pull all the inlet hose and the out hose after the check valve, remove the wires and then pull the bolts from the bracket mounting to the frame (13 mm i think). Now you can take it inside where its more convenient, there are 5 torx screws holding the pump together, you can remove the pump from the bracket if its easier for you to work with. The screw in the middle of the pump is a plastic screw so dont mix it up, everything is kindof sealed together but not really well so feel free to remove the the cap with the inlet and the rubber cap covering the motor itself. Now heres where you can do damage but who cares its shot anyway right so if you destroy it youll have to replace it anyway. You can take a hand drill (carefully, if you cant do this without hurting yourself you have no place doing it) and drill the metal tabs that are bent down to hold the motor together, youll likely have to grind at it with the side of your drill to cut it up . You may do damage to the seal section but you can fill that in with some high temp calk or whatever you want later. Once all four tabs are torn up you could probably pry with a flat head screw driver to get the housing off. Now youll notice the motor coil and the brush points at the base, This appears to me to be impossible to dissassemble so youll have to get some steady hands. Use an exacto knife to scratch up the wires, I bet you found a few wires that are broke right? Well you job is to brase all the broken wires back on and all the wires that arent broken for good messure (see how this is the part of the motor that was designed badly!), Youll want to use a high temp solder gun and a .031 dia solder to connect them, scratch em up really good so it sticks. Scratch at your solder to make shure its stuck really hard (a ball of solder wont likely work because of centrifical forces). After all points are stuck on hard then its likely cool, If you have a dc power supply handy then you can simply hook up the motor and make shure it runs now, turn it on and off to make shure it doesnt have a dead spot (this is important because it will stop right there sometime), make shure it comes to a full stop each time you turn it on and off, do that at least 10 times to exhaust the possibility for error.
If all is good then all you need now is a hard rubber washer (any washer should work but some kind of plastic should prevent wear on the rubber cap). loob up the spindle where you can but stay away from the brush points, blow out the dust the best you can and put your motor case back on the way it came off (if the motor dont work you may have the case on backwards) put your ruber washer on the end of the motor case (this allows for the assembly to hold the thing together really well) and put some sealer around the seal point and in any divets you may have made when drilling. This is just to keep water out of the motor case, rusty wires are hard to fix unless you respool it and that is a job in itself. assemble the motor the way it came apart and push on the end of the rubber cap to make shure its putting atleast a little pressure on the motor ( i think your washer needs to be 1/8 inch wide, .125 maybe more). put your truck back together and disconnect your negative battery cable for a while (i did it at work between brakes so Mine sat for 2 hours) then reconnect and your lite should stay off. You should feel the motor while its running from time to time to make shure its vibrating, It vibrates alot! so dont mistake it for engine vibration.
There is a solenoid in this assembly too, Its on the same bracket next to the pump. If your motor works but the light still appears it could be a cloged vac line or a bad solenoid. I cant help you there because mine appears to be good but I imagine the piece is cheaper than the motor itself including the checkvalve (that things so simple and durable i doubt it would ever break eather! This tutorial should have cost you no more than $50 in radio shack solder guns and solder wich is alot nicer than $204 in parts and now if it gos again you can pull it apart and fix it. Hope this helps someone save some cash!
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April 13th, 2007, 11:57 PM
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RE: secondary air injection
I need help in finding what is wrong with my S10 2001 V6. I had codes P1416, P0410, P0415. I know what the codes mean but my book from the auto store does not have the codes are anything on the parts and where they are at and how to fix it. Please help
April 28th, 2007, 2:52 AM
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RE: secondary air injection
P1416 - Secondary Air Injection (AIR) system Bank 2
P0414 - Secondary Air Injection Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
P0416 - Secondary Air Injection Switching Valve B Circuit Open
P0410 - Secondary Air Injection System
I cant find a listing on P0415 but its in the secondary air injection section. Now its likely that being 0415 its still refuring to the vacswitch on the smog pump. 1416 means that you are running lean while the pump is on so Im guessing you are getting all these problems from one source. This is likely the vac switch that causes it all. I dont know if you can get a new one seperate from the pump assembly (thats probably why the smog pump cost so much). If you are pretty good with tools and can improvise I would suggest removing your pump assembly (behind the front bumper passenger side below the radiator), If you had a nice ac powersupply like some of us circuit nerds you could check if the celenoid is engauging. If not thats your prob. Also check you vac lines for holes or kinks. I beleave your problem is the check valve is sticking open but it couldnt be the valve directly because its dead simple. Just check it the check valve is torn. When all is said and done make shure your pump still works, you can feel the rubber cap on it to see if its vibrating (for gods sakes watch out for the fan!!lol). If its dead then that needs fixed too, I already explained how to do that above so I wont get into it, If its dead you probably suffered the domino effect damaging several parts do to one issue.
The cheapest fix would be to go find an old style junk yard with a truck of the same time line (94-04 should cover it).Old style meaning they let you walk in and get your own parts, they tend to give you a cheap arms load of parts for nothing. If they are cheap take the whole freakin thing cause those pumps are priceless! Then you can switch out the celenoid from the assembly. Of course this is just what I would do because when my pump went none of the parts stores knew what the part was none the less could replace it for less than 100 bucks.
P0414 - Secondary Air Injection Switching Valve A Circuit Shorted
P0416 - Secondary Air Injection Switching Valve B Circuit Open
P0410 - Secondary Air Injection System
I cant find a listing on P0415 but its in the secondary air injection section. Now its likely that being 0415 its still refuring to the vacswitch on the smog pump. 1416 means that you are running lean while the pump is on so Im guessing you are getting all these problems from one source. This is likely the vac switch that causes it all. I dont know if you can get a new one seperate from the pump assembly (thats probably why the smog pump cost so much). If you are pretty good with tools and can improvise I would suggest removing your pump assembly (behind the front bumper passenger side below the radiator), If you had a nice ac powersupply like some of us circuit nerds you could check if the celenoid is engauging. If not thats your prob. Also check you vac lines for holes or kinks. I beleave your problem is the check valve is sticking open but it couldnt be the valve directly because its dead simple. Just check it the check valve is torn. When all is said and done make shure your pump still works, you can feel the rubber cap on it to see if its vibrating (for gods sakes watch out for the fan!!lol). If its dead then that needs fixed too, I already explained how to do that above so I wont get into it, If its dead you probably suffered the domino effect damaging several parts do to one issue.
The cheapest fix would be to go find an old style junk yard with a truck of the same time line (94-04 should cover it).Old style meaning they let you walk in and get your own parts, they tend to give you a cheap arms load of parts for nothing. If they are cheap take the whole freakin thing cause those pumps are priceless! Then you can switch out the celenoid from the assembly. Of course this is just what I would do because when my pump went none of the parts stores knew what the part was none the less could replace it for less than 100 bucks.
