2003 Suburban DEFECT - rear hatch glass hinge breaking
April 18th, 2024, 9:49 AM
#111
Proper OEM struts
I bought after market support struts and they ruined 2 rear glass windows on my 2005 Suburban. I tested them on a scale and they required 97 pounds of pressure to close. In 2 weeks they ripped the glued-on brackets on the window off, rendering it useless. I got the glass replaced under warranty, but am reluctant to put new support struts on if the glue they use nowadays is so weak. Does anyone know what the OEM pressure should be? It is a horrible design to have brackets glued to glass for something that has constant pressure when window is closed! Thanks.
TIA
2004 Suburban LT
Original owner 240K miles
Last edited by kwhaleys; April 18th, 2024 at 10:13 AM.
April 19th, 2024, 8:52 AM
#112
Disclaimer: I did NOT read all the pages here.
I will share the issue we had, believe with our 2005 Yukon purchased in 2010. Mrs. Cusser opened the window portion of the rear hatch, and the coiled rubber wire pulled the electrical contact clear off the glass; this was clearly (no pun intended) related to the too-tight coil pulling too much on the contact and/or strength of the adhesive by the supplier of the window. This was obviously an engineering defect of some sort, and I knew GM would say "not our issue". So I:
(1) bought and used special Loctite 2-part adhesive made especially for gluing the tab back on the window, some conductive epoxy, and it worked
(2) stretched the coiled wire
(3) instructed Mrs. Cusser to open ONLY the complete hatch, and leave the window part closed
Mrs. Cusser now drives a 2014 Yukon we purchased in 2022, and never opens the glass portion separately. In hindsight, since we live in Arizona, there's not much need for a defroster grid on a back window anyway....
I will share the issue we had, believe with our 2005 Yukon purchased in 2010. Mrs. Cusser opened the window portion of the rear hatch, and the coiled rubber wire pulled the electrical contact clear off the glass; this was clearly (no pun intended) related to the too-tight coil pulling too much on the contact and/or strength of the adhesive by the supplier of the window. This was obviously an engineering defect of some sort, and I knew GM would say "not our issue". So I:
(1) bought and used special Loctite 2-part adhesive made especially for gluing the tab back on the window, some conductive epoxy, and it worked
(2) stretched the coiled wire
(3) instructed Mrs. Cusser to open ONLY the complete hatch, and leave the window part closed
Mrs. Cusser now drives a 2014 Yukon we purchased in 2022, and never opens the glass portion separately. In hindsight, since we live in Arizona, there's not much need for a defroster grid on a back window anyway....
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kwhaleys (April 19th, 2024)
April 19th, 2024, 10:27 AM
#113
Administrator
When I first heard about this problem back around 2008, the first thing I did with my 2007 and, later my 2010, was unplug those coil leads and stretch them out so they didn't put a lot of stress on the tab when the glass hatch was raised.
April 19th, 2024, 12:45 PM
#114
Smarter than me !!! Unless you saw an old thread of mine, then smart to learn !!!
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